Teetering on the edge of wiping out in nearly every frame of this film, these freeriders push the limits of their Rocky Mountain Blizzard fatbikes.
Deep powder, steep chutes, good sized drops, and a dirt jump session complete with backflips and 360s kept me entertained for the entire 3 minutes and 4 seconds.
Good job Rocky Mountain.
Marin celebrates its 30 year anniversary with a new bike that harkens back to the classic, well-liked model it shares its name with, the Pine Mountain. In the video below, we take a look at the 2016 Marin Pine Mountain 2. The Pine Mountain 2 has upgraded build specs and frame construction (compared to the Pine Mounatin 1) that we took a close look at. Not only did we discuss those build specs and frame construction choices made by Marin, but also the possible applications for this 27.5 plus hardtail trail bike.
When looking at the Marin Pine Mountain 2, there were many things I immediately liked and/or was intrigued with.
The first was the frame construction. Columbus CrMo steel catches my attention right away. I have been a huge fan of steel hardtails ever since my first singlespeed 29er. The modern steel frames can be drawn, butted, and formed very precisely yielding a frame that has ride quality and rigidity in just the right places for a great balance of efficiency and comfort. This frame is unique in that it has really cool, high quality, yet understated graphics and design elements. The 30th anniversary emblem on the seat tube looks phenomenal. The raw, clear-coated frame with brazing showing through makes this frame look completely custom and has an industrial feel. As I looked at the brazing, I noticed this steel frame has cable routing through the frame. For a steel frame this is almost unheard of. Mad props to Marin for including this. It isn’t entirely necessary, but isappreciated as it makes this bike look clean, high quality, and if you didn’t know better, a one-off piece that was custom ordered.
Secondly, was the plus sized wheels and tires. While WTB Trailblazers are on the narrow end of the plus bike tread options, they roll quick and add volume that is noticeable. The WTB Scraper rims, with their 45mm inner width, allow a wide profile and will be a good foundation for any other tires you may decide to use in the future.
Thirdly, the rack and fender mounts on the frame are definitely a rarity on a trail bike like this. In my opinion, its better to have them and not need them, should you only use this bike in drier conditions for a general trail bike instead of loading it up or outfitting it with fenders. Like the adage goes, “Its better to have them and not need them, then not have them and wish you had them.” I imagine other frames like this, capable of general trail riding with higher volume tires and a little more comfortable geometry, will start incorporating features that cater to bikepacking, longer rides, and carrying more gear as overnight trips by bike continue to grow in popularity.
Fourth, I noticed the HUGE amount of clearance on the Fox Float 34 fork. This thing could probably come close to clearing an actual fat bike tire. It appears that tires close to 4 inches wide may fit. 29 plus tires should fit no problem, so I imagine just about any 27.5 plus tire could fit up there. That is a great plus. Pun intended.
Fifth, the dropper post. This was very intriguing. While I have yet to use a dropper post on a bikepacking trip, I have used them on trail rides and they are undoubtedly a huge benefit. This is the first time I can recall seeing a bike come factory spec’d with both a dropper post and rack mounts on the frame. I quickly wondered why. Why haven’t I seen this combination before and why did Marin include both. Both of my two hypotheses hinged on the assumption that because Marin wanted to make this a trail bike (Marin calls it “Trail+”), they included a dropper post. That seems reasonable. My first hypothesis is that in order to utilize a dropper post while bikepacking, the larger seat bags that are so common and often necessary for carrying sleeping bags, tents, clothing, or other bulky items would not be possible. Since the large seat bag wouldn’t be used when using the dropper, rack mounts would provide the opportunity to carry that necessary volume on a rear rack. The second hypothesis is that Marin figured most of the time, trail riders would prefer to have a dropper post, so they included it in the build, but they knew that the plus-size platform, with the trail geometry and steel frame would attract many riders would see this bike as one that can fulfill two roles: trail riding and bikepacking/all terrain touring. If riders plan to trail ride most days, but occasionally use it for an overnight bike trip, it would be easy to either swap out the seat post and use a large seat bag, or mount a rack and bags to carry their gear. I think its a good call and may be ahead of its time in a trend that may start in the future as we see more riders using their bikes to explore and spend nights in the backcountry.
Build Specs as listed on MarinBikes.com:
- Frame: Columbus Thron Butted and Formed CrMo, 27.5+ Wheels, Boost 148x12mm Naild Locking Thru-Axle Dropouts
- Weight: 29.01 lb/13.16 kg (published bike weight is based on a size Medium frame)
- Front Fork: Fox Float 34 27.5+, 3 Position Lever, 110x15mm Thru-Axle
- Crankset: Shimano Deore XT Hollowtech II, 32T
- Derailleur Rear: Shimano Deore XT Shadow Plus
- Shift Lever: Shimano Deore XT 1×11-Speed
- Derailleur Front: Cassette: Shimano Deore XT 11-Speed, 11-42T
- Bottom Bracket: Shimano Hollowtech II
- Chain: KMC X11L
- Hub Rear: Formula, 148x12mm, Alloy Axle, Quad Cartridge Sealed Bearing, Centerlock Disc, 32H
- Hub Front: Formula, 110x15mm, Sealed Cartridge Bearing, Centerlock Disc 28H
- Rim: WTB Scraper, 45mm Inner, Tubeless Ready Spokes
- Nipples: 14g Black Stainless Steel
- Tires: WTB Trail Blazer, 27.5×2.8
- Brakes Front: Shimano SLX Hydraulic Disc, 180mm Rotor
- Brakes Rear: Shimano SLX Hydraulic Disc, 160mm Rotor
- Brake Levers: Shimano SLX Hydraulic Cockpit
- Handlebar: Marin Flat Top Riser Grips: Marin Locking
- Stem: Marin 3D Forged Alloy
- Headset: FSA Orbit, Sealed Cartridge Bearing, 1 1/8
- Seatpost: KS LEV Integra, 30.9mm
- Saddle: WTB SLC XC
Thanks for reading.
Subscribe to get more of our content sent to your inbox!
Ride alongside one another. On bikes, through life, together.
This is Episode 6 in an ongoing series of videos we will be posting regularly to share our mountain biking tips and tricks with our subscribers.
Episode 5: GPS for Mountain Biking
Episode 4: Maps for Mountain Biking
Episode 3: The LBS
Episode 2: 1X Drivetrain Bail Out
Episode 1: Cold Fingers Remedy
EPISODE 6: Ditch Your Camelbak
Back in the early 2000’s, I purchased an aluminum-framed mountain bike with front suspension. With the mountain bike, I was offered 10% off any additional accessories at the time of purchase. After picking out a helmet, pump, patches, spare tube, tire levers, and multitool, I looked over the bike wondering what else I was missing. I saw water bottle mounts and instantly headed toward the water bottle cages. After picking up two, I began looking over the water bottles. The salesman came back to me and said he would throw in a couple water bottles for free if I was okay with them having the shop logo and contact info on them. I said of course, but then I was surprised as he led me toward some small backpacks that he began telling me about. He had started using these packs to carry all the water he needed for his ride, as well as all his trail-side repair tools and supplies. It had a hose and a bite valve that were up by your chest where they were less likely to get covered in dirt and more likely to keep you well hydrated without the fear of losing your bottle while riding. I loved the concept and was sold. I used a Camelbak for a decade straight without even thinking about going back to waterbottles ever again. In fact, with each new mountain bike I purchased, I scoffed at the water bottle mounts on the frame as I thought they were archaic and antiquated since the invention of the Camelbak. I was a huge fan.
Then I started seeing how far I could go in a single ride and entered endurance XC races. I quickly realized that having water mounted to my bike felt much better than on my back for any rides over 20 miles or a couple hours. I started using water bottle cages and water bottles again while using a small seat bag to carry my other items that had previously went into the Camelbak. I mounted up to 5 water bottles on my bike at a time to allow me to go into areas without opportunities to refill, all while keeping my back free from the weight that would be too great of a burden to bear over the extended hours of longer rides.
Then bikepacking bags entered my world. Sure, water bottle cages with a small seat bag are what I often choose to use for smaller, local loop rides, but more often these days, I find myself leaving my frame bag on the bike. Why?
Here are 5 quick reasons as shown in the MTB Tip of the Week video below:
- Get as much weight as low as possible. Putting the heavier items that need to be carried (such as a multitool, spare tube, and water in a hydration bladder) as low as possible on the bike, close to the bottom bracket, gets the center of gravity lower. This in turn enables easier maneuvering of the bicycle when moving the bike side to side than it would if the weight was carried higher up. Think of your bike like a lever. It is moved left to right and right to left as you lean and turn it, the tires, where they contact the ground are the pivot points. Getting the weight as close to the ground enables easier side to side transfer into turns.
- Comfort. If you have had a heavy backpack on for any length of time, you have realized how fatigued you can get in a very short amount of time. Keeping the weight of your water and other items off your back allows you to stay comfortable for a much longer period of time.
- Agility. I already wrote about the ability to keep the weight low on the bike, which helps to maneuver the bike, but it also allows your body to become more agile. Bending and balancing over top of the bike is much, much easier when you don’t have extra weight on your torso. Those of us who have lost weight have undoubtedly experienced this when we pleasantly found it easier to stay on that technical, narrow trail after losing 5 or 10 pounds.
- Accessibility. It is much easier to get into a frame bag to access small, frequently used items while riding than it is in a backpack style bag. the openings are right there beneath and in front of you.
- Ventilation. While this one may not be realized as frequently in the winter as in summer, it is huge, especially where I live in San Diego. Allowing your back to breathe through your jersey by not having any pack against it will dramatically aid cooling and keep you feeling fresh longer than you would if you were trapping sweat between you and your Camelbak.
I hope you find this MTB Tip of the Week useful. Many frame bags available these days have a hydration port that facilitates the passing of a hydration bladder hose through the frame bag and up to your handlebar cockpit area. You may need a hose extension kit, but most likely your LBS will have this available for you to purchase. Many of the frame bag builders are located in the USA and will custom make a bag for your individual bike. There are many all over North America, and there may be a frame bag builder very near to you. You don’t need to have a hardtail to enjoy the benefits of a framebag either. Many designs for full suspension frames are already in existence.
Take a look at what Bikepackers Magazine has put together for the list of framebag manufacturers:
Leave a comment below or send me an email at info@RideAlongside.com .
Thanks for your support! Now get outside and find some trails to ride!
My review of the Chumba Ursa 29+ Bikepacking rig got published on Bikepackers Magazine today.
Many riders I know focus entirely too much on the bike they ride and/or where they ride it.
In the fantastic video below, Brett Rheeder said it better than I could say it myself, “We are all trying to accomplish the same thing in one way or another; regardless of where we live or what we ride. What I’ve learned is that you can over-analyze and complicate things all you want, but in the end, riding is fun no matter where you are.”
Episode 1: Cold Fingers Remedy
Last year I decided to go back to a 1x drivetrain system. I have been known to really enjoy singlespeeding and had tried 1×9 drivetain setups in the past, liking both very much because they forced me to get stronger while torqued up climbs. I had recently been running a 3 chainring setup on my crankset for the previous year for a variety of reasons. Some of those were:
1. Recovery from a knee injury; I needed to feel like I could quickly bail out of the middle chainring into the granny to ease the torque off my knee.
2. The trails closest to my house have a long canyon with long flat sections of trail. I tend to rub out of gears if I don’t have a big ring.
3. Long climbs, especially at the end of a long day or long ride would require me to walk them or stop to rest if I didn’t have a granny gear.
4. I felt the weight was worth the versatility.
When I went back to the 1x drivetrain system, I decided to leave my 22T granny gear on my crankset.
I had removed a decent amount of weight from my bike:
443 g total removed
While I had added back a bit for the new narrow wide chainring and singlespeed bolts:
53 g total added
The total weight loss for my 1×10 was 390g however. That was significant.
I decided that leaving the granny gear on the crankset wouldn’t have removed too much more weight and I was happy with the weight loss already.
Having removed the front derailleur, I want sure how often I would use the 22T granny gear that remained on my crankset. I figured that it would be easy enough to change which chainring the chain would be on by hand if I really needed that granny gear, for a long hill for instance. I imagined that, for maybe 90% of my riding, I would pretty much forget that it was even there. I was right. After a year, even on long climbs I still sometimes forget it is there until I am almost cresting the climb. It has been a life saver on about a half dozen accounts however. Many days where continuing to push up climbs in the 32T chainring is just too much, the 22T has been a great way to continue on and adapt the gewring for the lack of training my body had seen in that season on the bike.
Here is a quick video showing how I change which chainring the chain is on by hand.
Finishing off the discussion with Mikki from Revolution Cycles on Salsa Cycles Fargo vs Cutthroat and Deadwood.
If you missed part 1/2, check it out here:
Drop Bar Mountain Bike Philosophy and Setup Optimization – Salsa Fargo, Deadwood, and Cutthroat [VIDEO]
In this video, Nick gets the rundown on Mikki’s Salsa Fargo setup for mountain biking, commuting, and bikepacking. Mikki discusses his setup, what he plans to change and why those changes will better suit his application. Part 2 will discuss more on the Cutthroat model, how it differs from the Fargo and Deadwood as well as how it could easily be modified from bikepacking race bike to more of a comfortable commuter or a more generally capable mountain bike.
Many thanks to Mikki from http://revolutionbikeshop.com/ for taking the time to discuss his rig with us. If you are ever in Solana Beach, CA make sure you stop by and say hello!
Thanks for watching.
20150908 – Just posted part 2/2. You can view it here:
The Trek Stache9 is a very capable 29plus hard tail trail bike with good geometry for aggressive riding on technical trails, minimizing the need to carefully choose exactly the right line. At the same time, the Stache9 excels in climbing since the rear wheel finds traction with the 29×3.0 inch Chupacabra tires on even the steepest and loosest terrains.
Watch the video to hear more about our experience after testing the Trek Stache 9 midfat #plusbike hardtail on the trails in San Diego.
A quick review after 6 months of hard riding and testing revealed a few issues.
The main issue discussed here was indeed remedied by removing the screw, bending back the ratchet strap to a greater angle than could be achieved while the buckle was on the shoe in order to reach the point of clearing the release lip. Alternatively, I have read that others have successfully made a shim out of the aluminum wall of a soda can or very thin blade/screwdriver/etc. to slide beneath the ratcheting mechanism from the back, thereby inhibiting the ratchet tooth and strap interface where they then we’re able to slide out the strap.
Thanks for watching!